THE HOLY LAND
Bob and Nadine Suber's
Pilgrimage to Israel and Jordan
May 2007
For those who wonder about the Holy Land or may be interested in visiting it, I have put together my comments on what we saw and experienced in the 11 days that we spent on a bus tour with professional guides.
This was a Christian Archeological tour. We visited the remains of archeological sites and important Christian and Jewish locations identified in the many passages of the Bible. We were accompanied by Father Dave Heney, pastor of St. Paschal Baylon Church in Thousand Oaks, California. He celebrated Mass for us at many of the important Christian sites.
What you see today in Israel and Jordan are not the depictions accompanying references to locations mentioned in the Bible. They are modern growing countries and most of what was built one, two or three thousand years ago have been ravaged and destroyed by earthquake, volcanic action, floods and various groups of political, religious or barbaric factions. In most cases, churches, synagogues and mosques have been built over one another on top of the previous ruins multiple times. These remains and the most current structures are what we visited.
We flew an El Al Boeing 777 to and from Tel Aviv. This plane to me was noisy with limited knee room. The food was typical airline food, almost edible. However the food that we ate during our pilgrimage was very good. It was mostly Mediterranean type food, lots of salads, vegetables, olives, and fruit. At Tabgha, which catered to the German trade, our meals combined European/Germanic seasoning and food. Even with all the walking we did I managed to add a few pounds. Yes, the water is safe to drink.
This was a safe tour that stayed away from the problem areas that still exist. Security is high with military and police presence obvious. Traveling to Jordan requires patience at the border crossings both coming and going. I was unaware that the Palestinians control large pockets of land all over Israel. In these areas, the police, fire and political structure is the responsibility of the PLO. Traveling into these pockets, such as in Bethlehem, is like going into another county with border crossings requiring carrying your passport. We saw and went through ‘The Wall’ and it is as big and ugly as you might expect. It is gray concrete about 18-20 feet high with barb wire on the top and an observation tower at all turns and at set distances. On the Palestinian side it is covered with graffiti. In Jordan we traveled everywhere with an armed tourist policeman assigned to us. In the major cities of Jordan there were at least 3 types of security forces in almost every block (business/tourist areas) with armored vehicles at all major intersections. Out in the middle of nowhere, on the route to tourist attractions, were armed military personnel every four or five hundred yards. Yes, it was safe!
Our base for the first few days was Jerusalem. We went to the top of the Mount of Olives, not far from our hotel, to view the “Golden City” of Jerusalem. This included our first view of cave/tombs where the dead were placed and a stone was used to seal the entrance. Most of buildings in Jerusalem are constructed of limestone which is readily available. We then visited the Church of the Pater Noster where the “Our Father is written out in at least 40 languages in mosaic plaques on the various walls. On to the Chapel of Ascension, the Garden of Gethsemane and the Church of All Nations. We went into the Kedron Valley see the tombs of Absolom, Zacharia and James. Then up to Mount Zion to see the Upper Room, revered as the site of the Last Supper. We moved on to the Dormition Abbey, St. Peter in Galicantu where St. Peter denied Jesus 3 times, and King David’s Tomb.
Our next excursion took us into the walled Old City of Jerusalem. We visited the “Wailing Wall” where I inserted into a crack the small note/prayer prepared by my Jewish and Christian friends that I drink coffee with in the mornings. The wall access is divided into a section reserved for men and the other for women. We unfortunately did not have time to tour the old city when the shops were open. We went out to Bethlehem to visit the Church of the Nativity, the Manger, the Church of St. Catherine, the Grotto of St. Jerome and the Shepard’s Fields. We then were bused to Ein Karem, birthplace of St. John the Baptist to visit the visitation Church where Mary proclaimed her famous “Magnificat”. We returned to the Old City to walk the Via Dolorosa where I suffered the results of not following my basic tenants of travel, carry an umbrella! We got soaked from the pouring rain because I had removed our umbrellas because it was not the rainy season and to help control the weight limits of our luggage.
The next day, at 6:30 AM, we visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to celebrate Mass. All of the churches have multiple altars to schedule various groups to use in celebrating Mass. Our tour guide managed to schedule us into the crypt that was built over the site where Our Lord was buried and rose from the dead. The room was very small with an altar and only room for our priest and about five others. I was privileged to read the scripture during this Mass and it was the emotional high for me of the entire trip. In the same structure was the site where Jesus was crucified. And surprisingly they are only about 40 yards apart, but at a considerable different level of grade. We traveled to Bethany and on to the Dead Sea (the lowest spot on earth). Those wishing could enter the water to float and/or coat themselves with the black mud from the bottom. Not to my liking but my wife Nadine waded in up to her ankles. Then we visited Masada and took the cable car up to the top of the plateau where this palace/fort was built originally by Herod. Here the Jewish Zealots committed suicide rather than be killed and/or enslaved by the Romans during the uprising in 73 A.D. We moved on to visit Qumran to see the caves where the Dead Sea scrolls were found. Then on to Jericho, to visit the ruins of the ancient city conquered by Joshua. On our return to Jerusalem we viewed the trail from Jericho to Jerusalem where the “Good Samaritan Inn” would have been located. We were able to view a rather formidable trail in the narrow valleys of mountainous terrain.
Our next excursion took us into Jordan. The border crossing both ways is time consuming and requires much patience to get through the security checks. This involved changing buses and guide as the Israeli ones are not allowed to operate in Jordan. Jordan is primarily Muslim and it becomes obvious in the dress of the people, especially the women in long dresses and head covering. Security relating to tourists is very high in Jordan as they do not want to loose that source of income.
Or drive took us to the traditional Baptismal Site on the Jordan River that was used by John the Baptist. Each of the major religions has been provided land to build churches here. The Greek Orthodox is almost complete and the Catholic Church has the floor poured and the walls up. We drove the Desert Road up to Mount Nebo where Moses viewed the Promised Land but was not allowed to cross over into it. Then it was on to Madaba, a Byzantine center of master mosaics to see the oldest surviving map of the Holy Land. We visited the largest of the Crusader castles at Moab and the Fortress of Herod at Machaerus where John the Baptist was imprisoned and beheaded. Also visited was the Crusader fortress of Shobek or Montreal Castle.
The major attraction in Jordan is Petra, which we visited. Our hotel overlooked the rolling hills that form the entrance and was within a 100 yards of the main entrance. What ever you have seen in pictures or have read does not exaggerate this major wonder of the Middle East. The entrance is via a narrow canyon with walls over 100 feet high, formed by flood waters over many years. There are caves and carvings on the way in which do not prepare you for the magnificent view of the “Treasury” as you emerge in to the narrow valley. It has a pinkish caste to it but up close, like much of the local limestone, it is variegated in color. All of the “structures” (temples, tombs and dwellings) were carved/chiseled into the limestone walls of this valley by hand. Behind the façade’s are caves, some carved square and others oval. People lived in them (this was a thriving city that exacted a tax from the caravans that traveled through the area) until very recently. The government built homes outside of the valley and convinced the population to move out, leaving the valley as a major tourist attraction. You can ride a horse part way in, take a horse drawn cart in, or walk. And if you like, you may hire transportation within the valley by donkey or camel. It is a mile in and out with several miles to cover in the valley. There is a downward grade from beginning to end and when you return to the entrance it is all uphill. I walked in and out spending about 3-4 hours including taking in all the various “buildings and sites”.
Our bus took us from Petra to Amman. Like much of the Middle East, it is a contrast of older buildings and major new construction. It is a modern city with wide streets, modern shops and large villas on the sides of the hills.
We left Amman heading for Tiberias stopping at the Greco-Roman City of Jerash. This is one of the better preserved ruins that stretches for over 2 miles. There is a hippodrome, arches, temples, columns and a huge theater. It is not too difficult to imagine what this city looked like when people lived there. It is awesome and massive. We watched a Roman soldier re-enactment of marching and a fight with barbarians as well a chariot race. Then it was off to our infamous crossing of the Sheikh Hussein Bride that would take us from Jordan back into Israel. This was the first time I have ever had my luggage x-rayed when I was leaving a country.
Tiberias is a beautiful area which includes the Sea of Galilee. We stayed at the Pilgerhaus in Tahgba which fronts onto the Sea. A serene a peaceful location that used to be a monastery but is sort of an upscale retreat center catering to the Germanic trade. This is the area that Our Lord traveled during his ministry and we were about to visit those places whose names are familiar to us from reading scripture.
We started at Kibbutz Ginossar to take a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee. Here also we viewed a somewhat intact 2000 year old wooden boat that has been dubbed “The Jesus Boat” that has been recently found in the mud when the level of the sea dropped. We went to Caparnaum to see the remains of the town and the Synagogue where he taught. Also included was the Church of St. Peter’s Primacy built over the ruins of his mother-in-laws home where he lived. We went to the site where the miracle of the multiplication of the loaves and fishes took place. We visited the Mount of Beatitudes where the Sermon on the Mount took place and drove to Bethsaida on the shores of the Sea. Our trip took us to Cana of Galilee where Our Lord performed his first miracle, changing water into wine. In the Church built over the site our group renewed our marriage vows. Then it was off to visit Mount Tabor which commemorates the Transfiguration of Jesus before his disciples.
Our bus drove us to Megiddo, the Armageddon of the Book of revelations where it is said that the last battle of good and evil will take place. Continuing on we went to Nazareth for a visit to the town where Jesus grew up. Then we were bused to Sepphoris to view the excavations of this ancient capital of Galilee.
As our pilgrimage was coming to an end we drove to the port city of Haifa to ascend Mount Carmel, the home of the prophets Elijah and Elisha. This provided a fantastic view of city and the harbor as well as a visit to the Stella Maris Convent. On leaving the mount we stopped by the headquarters of the Ba Hai faith. We took in the extensive sculptured gardens extending from the base of the mount all the way to the top with the Temple and office building about half way up.
We headed south along the Mediterranean coast to Caesarea, the capital of the ancient roman Procurators of Judea. This was where St. Paul preached and was imprisoned. We visited the Roman Theater, Crusader fort and moat and Byzantine Church. We continued down the coast to Old Jaffa, one of the oldest port cities in the world. Here we visited St Peter’s Church where he raised to life the widow Tabitha. At the end of our pilgrimage we enjoyed an extensive and festive farewell dinner and it was off to Ben Gurion Airport for the flight home.
This was one of the more enjoyable and educational vacations that we have taken. It was an area that we always wanted to visit and what the tours provided exceeded our expectations. Both of our guides were very knowledgeable scripturally and politically.
