Visitors to this page since June 18, 2011

By Dick McKenzie

(Sent  Monday, June 13, 2011)

    It has been such a long time since I have written a "postcard from Nha Trang"  that I am not sure where to begin. But, as my seventh anniversary as an expatriate in Nha Trang, Vietnam passes I wanted to write about it, as much for my own recollecting as for your (hopefully) enjoyment.

    It is amazing how much Nha Trang has changed in these few years.  Before, the view from the sea was of a few small hotels and a lot of beach. Now it is a skyline of 30- and 40-story hotels, condominiums and a shopping center.  Unfortunately, this unbridled growth will probably have serious consequences in the future, maybe even in the near future.

    Where are all the tourists coming from to fill these rooms?  Granted the well-to-do Vietnamese already make up the great majority of tourists. And, the tourists from America, which are the largest number in tourism statistics, are returning emigrants, back for a visit or in some cases retiring here with money they saved in the U.S.

    Before, there were a few multi-story hotels and a lot of small "guest houses." The owners of the guest houses now are tearing them down and replacing them with 8- to 12-story buildings.  Presently underway are a gigantic Crown Plaza and Marriot and the Sheraton and Novotel were only recently completed.  There are a lot of rooms to rent. 

    I have been able to take my Beautiful Wife Dung to visit the U.S. three times now and the last time was as an immigrant to the U.S.  She now has her green card, and, if we wished (and could afford) to spend three years in the U.S., she could get her citizenship.  I wish we could get it but it just isn't plausible.  As it is, with the card, our international traveling, such as we can afford, is decidedly easier.  On the latest trip we met a friend from Chicago who was visiting family in Los Angeles for Tet and she gave us a large cash gift to deliver to an orphanage near our house.  (A picture of the children is at the right.)  It is an inspiring place.

    Presently, there is high tension between Vietnam and China over contested waters in the East Sea, more commonly known as the South China Sea.  These waters are traditionally and under international law, legally, Vietnam's.  Unfortunately, might etc.  At stake are fish and oil, both important commodities.  Last week, some naval ships conducted some live round firing practice in Nha Trang Bay. (I missed it, we live too far from the shore to hear it at our house).  Vietnam pushed China back shortly after the war with the U.S. ended, but any conflict at sea will be dominated by the Chinese.  We hope it doesn't come to that.

    You may recall my mentioning that the province of Khanh Hoa where Nha Trang is located has one of the most notoriously corrupt administrations in all of Vietnam.  A shining example is the beautiful new four-lane highway which was cut into the side of the rocky cliffs from Nha Trang to the old U.S. Navy airport at Camh Ran Bay, which is now a new international airport serving the whole area.  It was completed about six years ago and is totally disintegrating.  The likely reason is inferior materials while the money to pay for good materials went into politicians' pockets.  Another recent example of their lack of foresight is a recent decision to tear down the Ana Mandera Resort, which is one of the most highly regarded resorts in all of South East Asia, having been noted in many travel publications over the years.  For a community anxious to encourage tourism, this is a foolish decision.  They will clear some beach but at a large economic cost.

    At any rate, the national government in Hanoi recently designated Nha Trang as a #1 city, which meant that its administration was taken away from Khanh Hoa and it is now run by Hanoi.  There have been marked improvements in the town since the change.

    Otherwise, life goes on.  This week the city is celebrating its bi-annual Beach Festival and the preparations have been underway for weeks.  When Dung and I walk at the beach in the evening we have been able to watch the hustle and bustle of the construction of the special floats and stages at the main square, the stringing of colorful canopies of lights across the nearby streets and the improvements to beach side park areas with new lighting and railings and pavements, plus at least a 10-increase in the number of good trash receptacles.  (Not only that but the Vietnamese are gradually beginning to make use of them.)  At a square some distance from the beach, an old, decrepit fountain has been replaced with a beautiful, computerized, dancing waters fountain.  I remarked to Dung that it is too bad the government could find money for that but still can not provide clean toilets for schoolchildren.

    Last night (June 11), the opening ceremony was held and it was spectacular.  The costumes and the girls in them were all gorgeous.  The floats were very well done with real creative flair. The parents of one of our English students gave us tickets to enter the enclosure that is roped off from the crowd, directly in front of the main performing area.  It would have been a great treat to take some pictures and attach them to this story, but, while pushing our way through the crowd to get to the enclosure, someone got my camera from my top shirt pocket, right under my nose, and I didn't notice a thing.  Someone also lifted a pair of folding glasses from a small leather case in my front pants pocket.  Not much use to them but a nuisance to replace.

    Earlier, I had taken a picture, that was lost with the camera, of a row of police keeping the rehearsal area clear.  I took it because of the obvious absence of guns.  Every time I read another article about carrying guns in the U.S. in bars and churches and hidden and in plain sight I appreciate a country where  guns are rare. There are some special groups that are armed, but they rarely use their weapons.  Before you suggest that this is a reflection of the government's fear of its people I will point out that sport hunting is permitted and guns are privately owned, but the assumption that it is a right is not there.

    I have been "teaching" my English class for most of the seven years.  The numbers fluctuate but the enthusiasm and appreciation never does.  Recently, a business man opened a new private hospital in Nha Trang and I have become friends with a chiropractor from Houston who came back to assist his friend with the operation of the hospital.  Dat has been in the oil business and the cattle business in Texas as well as practicing chiropractic treatment, so he is a very interesting chap.  He has talked me into teaching English to his staff several days a week, in return for free medical care for Dung and me.  Dung has been going with me to help and has really enjoyed it.  It has expanded her vocabulary to work with all the medical terms.

    The city isn't the only place where there has been a lot of change.  Our family here has also gone through a lot of changes.  Our younger sister, Tuyet, who had the silk shop here, is now living in Vancouver, Canada, where her youngest daughter has been going to high school.  Another niece from Saigon is also there and living with them.  She graduates this year.  Tuyet is trying to emigrate.  Several nieces and nephews have gotten married and had babies or divorced and remarried.  Nothing stays the same for long, it seems.

    I have been enjoying coffee with the same group for several years.  There are several American expats, a few from other countries like Holland and Canada and Viet Kieu and local Vietnamese.  Our coffee bar is called the Beverly Hills and we usually sit on the outside porch where we can watch all the lovely girls come and go.  Also, coffee shops all employ "door girls" who stand out front and greet the patrons and take them to a seat.  For our patronage, the shop must employ attractive door girls and the Beverly Hills does.  It makes for a pleasant start to the day.

    Once again, I close by offering our hospitality to any of our friends that would like to see Vietnam.  We've had many guests but no old classmates.  Sorry we wont be able to get back for the reunion.  I hope it is a great success.

Dick and Dung

    Calling Vietnam...

    Dick would like to chat with classmates. This is what he wrote:

    "My California phone number operates on my Magic Jack from here. There is a 13-hour time difference. If someone calls, he or she may may get me or my answering machine. If they get the answering machine, I can return their call.

    "The number is 510- 629-2167. It is the same as dialing California as far as cost. Call me sometime."

7 years in Vietnam

Our classmate talks about

llfe as an expatriate in Nha Trang

Dick and Dung at the Hideway Resort

A birthday party for our oldest student, Mr Mai, 76

Dung and her daughter-in-law

Niece Moui

in Vancouver

Niece Lyly

in Vancouver

Dung and orphans who were helped by a friend from Chicago.

Dress rehearsal for the Beach Festival opening show