July 31,2004
Hi Bob,
Wow, July flew by. Thought I'd bring you up to date on life in the 3rd world before I leave for another visit to Ho Chi Minh City, still called Saigon by most people who don't work for the government.
I have only heard from one person in response to my comments and appeal for the children in the village for sufferers from leprosy. Dennis Must wrote and sent $100. Thanks Dennis!
First, there has been a major change for me. Nhung, the young woman that was a big part of my incentive to come here to live, was never able to get serious about learning English and fitting in part time with Westerners. I did every thing I could to help her and support her but it was not working and we separated several months ago.
However, my friendship with Dung, the 52-year-old widow who took me to visit the leprosy village and I have gradually fallen in love. By the way, the pronunciation of Dung is Yum and her nickname is Yumyum. For obvious reasons, we use that spelling with Westerners. She is an amazing woman and the age factor is much more reasonable. She is a university graduate, speaks (and teaches) English and French and Khmer, the language of Cambodia. Her family was associated with the Americans and had three villas and two farms confiscated by the Communists in 1985. One of our projects in Saigon this week is to apply for a tourist visa for Yumyum, so she can come with me to America to get married at my daughter's in Montclair, CA sometime this Fall.
One unusual thing about Yumyum as far as our relationship is concerned is that she is a very serious convert to Christianity. Since I have been a practicing Agnostic and all-around skeptic since my confirmation at Trinity Episcopal Church, we are an unlikely pair, but I have great respect for her commitment and enjoy going to her Protestant church and listening to them sing and seeing several hundred, devoutly believing people packed into their small church. It's also fun to be the tallest person in a big crowd.
Since the Illinois town I left had recently experienced the fire-bombing of a mosque and swaztika graffitii on a synagogue, I feel somewhat embarrassed to see the US Congress is still complaining about religious freedom in Vietnam. They should be doing something about the Agent Orange victims we see everywhere.
We have been organizing our house. The biggest accomplishment was employing a full-time housekeeper/cook, Sau, who is really great. We have to wait a month while our downstairs furniture is made and delivered but the company loaned us some to use till then.
Last night, a Dutch friend of mine and an Australian novelist and filmaker came over with a copy of Fahrenheit 9/11 and even Yumyum was engrossed by the absurdity of what has gone on back there for the past 2 1/2 years. When people ask me why I find life more enjoyable in Viet Nam, I will suggest they view that film. There is corruption and greed here, just like all of the world, but not on such a grand and destructive scale!
The people of this country continue to be a source of never ending amazement. Last week, we went to a nursery to buy potted plants for the balconies of the house. We paid about $150 for a beautiful array of trees and flowering trees, about 20 huge pots in all. The nursery operator delivered them in three trips on a bicycle-powered, three-wheel delivery cart. The driver was thin as a stick and must have been at least 70. He was assisted by a young man with a motorbike, who rode along side with his foot on a welded post that extended to the side at the rear of the bike and pushed as he drove. Each cart load must have been 600 pounds. Then they carried most of them up to the third floor balcony. With the biggest, the young man managed to lift it himself and the older man pushed on his shoulders to keep him from falling over backward. For all this they were paid about $4 and were delighted. Most Vietnamese laborers get between $1 and $2 a day.
I could go on with little slices of life here but I need to get home so I'll save it till later. Say hello to everyone for me at the picnic. Sorry I can't make it this year.
Dick
August 25, 2004
In spite of the fact that Yum and I have a joint bank account and have purchased a house together here in Nha Trang as well as other actions to reinforce our intention to make our home in Vietnam, a U.S. Consular interviewer decided yesterday that she failed to make a convincing argument that she wasn't trying to immigate to the U.S. (Dick is trying to get her a tourist visa so they can fly to his daughter's place in Monclair, California, and be married.)
Anyway, we will have to pay another $100 fee and apply again.
Yes, I said we'd bought a house. Actually, although it is a perfectly good house and we will use it to house some poor people and students from Yum's church for a couple of months, we will tear it down and build a U-shaped villa with a garden, or, if possible, a swimming pool in the middle of the U starting in January. It will be one story, except for a two-bedroom and bath guest area on a partial second level along with an eating veranda.
This past weekend was the anniversary of the death of Yum's father and in keeping with the Vietnamese ancestor reverence, many of the family assembled in Nha Trang and I was invited as I have been completely accepted by everyone. A very warm feeling! One of the sisters put a lit cigarette on a broken joss stick and put it in the urn with the burning incense as father was a smoker. The Christian sisters refrained from the Buddhist prayers, but, otherwise, everyone participated.
We have a steady stream of relatives coming through and using our extra bedrooms as various weddings and other celebrations come up. Yum is already talking about Christmas decorations and I thought I'd gotten away from that hassle.
Big news! Our cow had her calf several weeks ago and so far both are thriving.
A reminder of the level of income in this country: Hien, the English teacher/farmer sent us a phone message last Saturday and said he had a chance to earn some money taking tourists to one of the islands, if Yum and I would cover for him at class. I said we'd be glad to. Later, he sent me a message, thanking us profusely, saying he was able to earn 50,000 Dong. That is all of $3.
The government is making a big push to reduce injuries in accidents and requires all motorbike riders to wear helmets on the highway. However, the cumbersome three-wheel cyclos that taxi people about town and bicycles have no light or even reflector requirements and a good 15% of motorbikes don't use their lights at night.
We had our new furniture delivered and the house is quite comfortable. Would love to see some old faces, I mean old friends.
Hope the picnic was a success.
Dick
